Showing posts with label David Suzuki Foundation. Show all posts
Showing posts with label David Suzuki Foundation. Show all posts
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Lucie's Zesty Tester

Last night, we were Christmas shopping at the Salon des métiers d'art, a huge annual arts and crafts fair at Place Bonaventure, and I was telling friends Lucie and Carine about the shower gel I made. Lucie had taken my post about the toxins in commercial cosmetics to heart, even going so far as to print the David Suzuki Foundation's wallet-size dirty dozen list and carry it around with her. As we started reading labels on cosmetics at the Dans un Jardin display, Lucie expressed an interest in trying some of my shower gel. (Mr. Burns...excellent!)

Lucie is the best person for giving feedback, and I know that she will give it to me straight without any social filters to make her comments more palatable, which is what I prefer. I cringe at the thought of having friends peek out from behind the curtains as I walk up their front step. "Oh, here she comes...Listen..T-tell her that the gel was wonderful," says one. "You mean that stuff we threw out?" asks the other. Anyway...

Without getting too technical, I want to explain the five essential classes of ingredients needed in a skin care cleaning product:

1) Emollients: They protect the skin from dryness and act as a healing agent.
2) Humectants: They keep your skin moist and draw in moisture from the air.
3) Emulsifiers: They hold all the products together that don't usually mix. Sometimes instead of using an emulsifier, you're simply instructed to shake the product before using.
4) Surfactants: These are used to break down oils and separate them from dirt.
5) Preservatives: They extend the life of the product.

Source: Natural Skin Care Authority

The following is the recipe for the shower gel that I have been using for the past month. I think it's great, but I'd like another opinion. The scent is fresh, clean and lemony, but it doesn't linger after you rinse.

Shower Gel
1/4 cup (125 ml) of castile liquid soap (Surfactant)
1/4 cup (125 ml) of aloe vera gel (Emulsifier, Emollient and Preservative) Aloe Vera also acts as a thickener.
1 teaspoon of glycerin (Humectant and Emulsifier)
1/4 cup (125 ml) of sweet almond oil (Emollient)
A few drops of lemon essential oil (Preservative and Scent)
A few drops of ylang ylang essential oil, which is a recommended mix with lemon. (Scent)

Pssst...ylang ylang is apparently an aphrodisiac. Do you think I should tell her? Read all about the properties of essential oils ylang ylang here and lemon here.

All these ingredients were purchased at the Tau health food store on St. Denis. I have used a reusable plastic beverage container with an easy to pour spout. Not glamorous, but this is just a tester. I should also mention that the quantity I made will last about six weeks, which is how long it will be good for. It obviously doesn't have the same shelf life as a commercial brand. Apparently, you can tell if your shower gel is no longer usable if there is a noticeable difference in scent.

Related posts:
Update: DIY Cosmetics
DIY: Moisturizer and Shampoo
Cosmetics: the Dirty Dozen
DIY: Home Spa Salt Scrub
Dirty Dozen in my Personal Care Products
Living Downstream by Sandra Steingraber
Airing our Dirty Laundry
The Mile End Buzz around Beekeeping



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DIY: Moisturizer and Shampoo

In my quest to rid our everyday cosmetics of the Dirty Dozen, I made a request via Facebook to see where I might get a reference guide for making my own cosmetics. Luckily, herbal maven Angie Oriana Jenkins gave me my first resource, A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients, which I immediately ordered online. As I quickly discovered, a basic resource is key because of the sheer volume of information in cyberspace. 

There was no shortage of e-recipes. I found step-by-step instructions on how to make moisturizers, lip balms, shampoos, facial masks, and the easiest of them all, hair conditioners. There were even recipes for getting rid of lice. Just a word of advice. Once you decide on a recipe, make sure that you are familiar with the measurement units the recipe calls for. I chose one with measurements in ounces and was continually reaching for my pencil to figure out what that would be in grams.

Deciding on a recipe was not difficult, but coming up with all the ingredients required two trips to Tau, a large health food store here in Montreal. This was an eye-opening experience. Did you know it is possible to buy a large bar of beeswax and a bottle of avocado oil? I spent about $75 for all the ingredients, and I know that this sounds expensive, but the high-end commercial moisturizer I usually buy, which does not disclose all of its ingredients, retails for about $60. If we end up using the shampoo and moisturizer over the winter months then the experiment will be well worth the money. Besides, these two experiments were FUN!

The moisturizer

1. Combine one cup of almond oil and 1/2 cup of beeswax in a small pot and stir with a wooden spoon until melted.
2. Using a wire whisk, beat the liquid while it cools.
3. Add a few drops of essential oils (lavender and ylang ylang) and the contents of three vitamin E capsules.
4. Pour mixture into sterilized jars.

From this combination, I ended up with a small mason jar and a half of moisturizer, and our house was impregnated with the sweet smell of beeswax. Saturday being bath night, I tried the moisturizer on my kiddies' legs. It took about an hour for the moisturizer to be absorbed, but there was no sticky residue after that. My husband's reaction, which is very important: the moisturizer smelled "okay." Some more food for thought, beeswax was hard to get off the whisk, wooden spoon and pot. It's important to use an old rag to wipe down the pot immediately after use before the wax sets. Then throw the rags out because they can catch fire in the dryer if you try to clean them. Also keep in mind that this product can clog your drain.

NB, The consistency of the above mixture is more of a balm or salve. Angie Jenkins told me that moisturizers are usually water based with a creamier texture and call for a lot more ingredients.

Rosemary/Sage Shampoo

8 oz of liquid Castile soap. (Castile soap is made from 100% olive oil.)
1/2 oz of rosemary (stimulates hair follicles and is known to prevent premature balding.)
1/2 oz of sage (acts as an anti-oxidant and conserving agent.)
a few drops of lavender oil (helps to control itchy scalp.)
*Optional 1/2 oz of nettles (stimulates hair growth and blood circulation.)

1. Mix the herbs in a mason jar and add the lavender, then seal tightly.
2. Boil two cups of water.
3. Add three tablespoons of the herbal mixture to the boiling water and let it stand for 30 to 45 minutes.
4. Strain the herbs off the water into a clean bowl.
5. Take two 8oz shampoo bottles, add 2 oz of the herbal water to each and then add 4 oz of Castile liquid soap to each bottle.
6. Shake both bottles well.
7. Voila! You now have two bottles of Rosemary/Sage herbal shampoo!

Results
I washed both my kids' hair with this, and I was pleased with my daughter's reaction, "Mom, it smells so good!" Success on one end. There was a little bit of lather without the evil sodium laureth sulfate (Dirty Dozen number 11). My husband said that it smelled "okay" and that he would try it. My kids' hair looked just as it usually did after washing. I guess we'll still have to reassess this at a later date to see how this shampoo performs in the long run, but so far, so good. Just a note to readers. I had a lot of leftover herbs and herbal water from this recipe.

Fast forward to one month later to see the results of these experiments.

Reflection
I enjoyed these two experiments, and I was pleased with the results. However, I still feel overwhelmed by all the information I found on herbs and their properties, and if I'm being completely honest, the sweet smell of beeswax in the kitchen the next morning made me feel slightly sick to my stomach. Good ventilation is important.

Another point: I've been off sick with pneumonia for two weeks, but our everyday lives of raising two kids and working full time are pretty busy. Therefore, in my heart of hearts, I find myself looking for convenience.

We can all read labels to avoid the Dirty Dozen in our cosmetics, but maybe we should defer to an expert for things such as cosmetics. When we pay for a product, we are paying for overhead, ingredients, labour, etc, and while I have no issue with companies making profits, I do object to their profit-making taking precedent over our well-being.

In my research, I came across many lines of homemade beauty products. However, I met herbalist Angie Oriana Jenkins who has worked extensively in the health foods industry and who is a go-to person for all things roses, which includes giving classes at Acadia University on the subject. I have gone through her line of products and her list of ingredients, and I have found her prices reasonable given her expertise and the actual cost of ingredients.

Angie's line, Sister Lotus, is a great place to start if you want to avoid the Dirty Dozen and capitalize on her experience. Besides, isn't it nicer to buy something from an individual rather than a huge corporation?

We also owe a big thanks to the David Suzuki Foundation for bringing the Dirty Dozen to our attention.

Related posts:
Cosmetics: the Dirty Dozen
Dirty Dozen in my Personal Care Products
The Mile End Buzz around Beekeeping



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Dirty Dozen in My Personal Care Products

After my research yesterday, I thought I had a relatively good handle on the Dirty Dozen, or the 12 cosmetic ingredients consumers should avoid according to the David Suzuki Foundation (DSF). However, I ran into a problem with the chemical names that were similar but not exact matches. For all of us who took high school chemistry, we know that a tiny change in name suggests a whole different substance. No need to despair! I discovered Chemicals in Cosmetics, a UK database where more of these little beasts are listed.

I took the first three bottles I found in our bathroom. The first one is Colgate/Palmolive Softsoap, a liquid hand soap that we all use. Here is the list of ingredients that figure among the DSF's Dirty Dozen:

Number 11- Sodium Laureth Sulfate: This is what makes the foamy suds, and it may contain 1,4 dioxane, a possible carcinogen that does not biodegrade.
Number 7- Parfum: Some types have been linked to cancer and neurotoxicity and may trigger asthma and allergies.
Number 5- DMDM hydantoin: This is a formaldehyde releasing preservative. Formaldehyde is a carcinogen.
Number 8- PEG-120 and PEG-7: Both are petroleum-based compounds that may be contaminated with 1,4 dioxane.
Number 12- Triclosan: The anti-bacterial agent found in a wide range of consumer products. It is a suspected endocrine disruptor, does not biodegrade and may react to create dioxins, which are highly toxic. There is also some concern that extensive use could result in antibiotic-resistant bacteria.


Therefore, there were six Dirty Dozen ingredients in our hand soap alone. Not very reassuring, as it's the product we use several times a day. Then there were the names that were not perfect matches, as in the following:


Cocamidopropyl Betaine: According to the Chemicals in Cosmetics database, this substance may cause skin and eye irritation.
Polyquaternium-7. As you may recall from the list yesterday, Polyquaternium-15 is named. According to the UK database, Polyquaternium 7, 15, 31, 60 etc. are all formaldehyde releasing substances. I'm adding this entire family to Dirty Dozen Number #5.


The second item was Klorane shampoo with camomile, which I assumed to be a gentle shampoo for my daughter. The ingredients are as follows:

Number 11- Sodium Laureth Sulfate: Think foamy suds, and it may contain 1,4 dioxane, a possible carcinogen that does not biodegrade.
Number 7- PEG-7: A petroleum-based compound that may be contaminated with 1,4 dioxane, a possible carcinogen.
Number 7- Parfum: Some types have been linked to cancer and neurotoxicity and may trigger asthma and allergic reactions.
Number 5- Polyquaternium-7: A formaldehyde releasing substance. Formaldehyde is a carcinogen.

Therefore, in my daughter's gentle shampoo, there are four Dirty Dozen ingredients.

The final product and also the one with the longest list of ingredients was Le Petit Marseillais shower cream. Here are the Dirty Dozen ingredients I discovered:

Number 11- Sodium Laureth Sulfate: I think I can do without the suds now.
Number 3- Cocamide MEA: On the list, you might recall that the name was Cocamide DEA, but because DEA, MEA and TEA are all under the same heading, I'll opt to be better safe than sorry. DEA, MEA and TEA can combine with other chemicals to form carcinogenic nitrosamines.
Number 11: Sodium Lauryl Sufate: This is a known eye, skin and respiratory tract irritant.
Number 5- Polyquaternium-7: A formaldehyde releasing substance. Formaldehyde is a carcinogen.
Number 7- Parfum: Some types have been linked to cancer and neurotoxicity and may trigger asthma and allergic reactions.

It also names the following as its fourth ingredient:


Cocamidopropyl Betaine: According to the Chemicals in Cosmetics database, this substance may cause skin and eye irritation.

Now that we're all sufficiently depressed, I'll start to look into some possible solutions for my next post. If you have or know of any home remedies or commercial brands without any Dirty Dozen ingredients for shampoos, soaps or moisturizers, please drop me a line and share them with us.

Related posts:
Cosmetics: the Dirty Dozen
Living Downstream by Sandra Steingraber
Airing our Dirty Laundry
The Mile End Buzz around Beekeeping











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Cosmetics: The Dirty Dozen

According to the David Suzuki Foundation (DSF), the ingredients found in cosmetics are not "pretty." In fact, the DSF states that U.S. researchers from the Environmental Working Group have reported that 1 in 8 of the 82,000 ingredients used in personal care products are industrial chemicals, which include carcinogens, pesticides, reproductive toxins, endocrine disruptors, plasticizers, powerful degreasers used to clean industrial machinery and surfactants.

The DSF surveyed Canadians to find out how many of the Dirty Dozen (list below) were in their cosmetics, and unfortunately, 80% of all products contained at least 1 toxic ingredient.

As you can well imagine, after reading through the list, I headed to the bathroom. I know that my husband and I have the metabolic rate, body weight and immune system to handle a greater toxic load than our children, but I shudder to think what these chemicals could do to my three- and eight-year-old.

I took the list, which, yes, is pretty daunting, and pulled back the shower curtain. BTW, if you're going to do this, I suggest you bring a magnifying glass or yer bifocals. The print is indeed small.

I have gone through the ingredients of the above three products in my bathroom. Check in tomorrow to hear about my hair-raising finds.

Here's what to look for when you go shopping:

The Dirty Dozen

1. BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole) and BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene). They serve as preservatives in make-up and moisturizers. They are also suspected endocrine disruptors and may cause cancer.


2. Coal tar dyes: Look for p-phenylenediamine hair dyes and in other products colours listed as "CI" followed by five digits.Possible carcinogen and may contain heavy metals that are toxic to your brain.

3. DEA (diethanolamine):  This is used in creamy moisturizers and sunscreens. Cocamide and lauramide DEA are found in sudsy products, such as shampoos, cleansers and soaps. Also be on the lookout for MEA (monoethanolamide) and TEA (triethanolamine). Like DEA, MEA and TEA can combine with other chemicals to form carcinogenic nitrosamines.

4. Dibutyl Phthalate (DBP): The plasticizer used in some nail care products. Suspected endocrine disruptor and a reproductive toxicant. Another phthalate (pronounced tha-late) to look out for is DEP or diethyl phthalate.

5. Formaldehyde releasing-preservatives: Arm your decoder for this list! Keep your eye out for DMDM hydantoin, diazolidinyl urea, imidazolidinyl urea, methenamine and quaternium-15, which release small amounts of formaldehyde, a carcinogen. This is found mainly in cosmetics.

6. Parabens: Again, this is used as a preservative in a variety of cosmetics, and it may interfere with male reproduction functions.

7. Parfum: This is also known as fragrance, which cosmetic manufacturers are not compelled to disclose the ingredients of, as they constitute a trade secret. Parfum is found in a wide variety of cosmetics, including those marketed as unscented. Parfum can trigger both allergies and asthma. Some types have been linked to cancer and neurotoxicity.

8. PEGs (related compound-polyethylene glycols): Petroleum-based compounds widely used in cream bases of cosmetics. Depending on the manufacturing process, this compound may be contaminated with 1,4 dioxane, a possible carcinogen that is also persistent. In other words, it doesn't break down once it washes down the drain. Keep an eye out for the "eth" as in polyethylene glycol.

9. Petrolatum: Also known as mineral oil jelly, petrolatum is used as a barrier to lock moisture into skin. It may also be used in hair care products to make your locks shine. Petrolatum can be contaminated with polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs). Studies suggest that exposure to PAHs over extended periods may cause cancer. The European Union has classified PAH a carcinogen.

10. Siloxanes (cyclotetrasiloxane (D4), cyclopentasiloxane (D5), cyclohexasiloxane (D6) and cyclomethicone (D4 + D5 + D6)): Look for ingredients ending in "siloxane." These silocone compounds are used in cosmetics to soften, smooth and moisten. They are used in deodorant creams, moisturizers and facial treatments. Environment Canada has found D4 and D5 to be toxic, persistent and to bioaccumulate in aquatic organisms. The European Union has classified D4  as an endocrine disruptor. D5 has been found to cause uterine tumours and compromise immune and reproductive systems.

11. Sodium laureth sulfate: This is found in bubble bath, shampoos and cleansers. It may also be contaminated with 1,4 dioxane (a possible carcinogen). Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) is a related agent that is a known skin, eye and respiratory tract irritant. Also be on the look out for other ethoxylates, or the chemical names with "eth" in them, as in sodium laureth sulfate.

12. Triclosan: This is an anti-bacterial agent that can be found in everything from hand sanitizers to furniture fabric and facial tissues. Triclosan enters through the skin and is a suspected endocrine disruptor. Because triclosan is persistent, it does not biodegrade, and in nature it may also react to create dioxins, which are highly toxic. Another concern of the extensive use of Triclosan in consumer products is that it may result in antibiotic-resistant bacteria.

Source: the David Suzuki Foundation.


Too Much for You to Remember?

If you think that this list is too much to remember then here are some tips and tools that the DSF recommends when shoppping for cosmetics:

1. Purchase products with fewer ingredients. Buy shampoos with only 12 instead of 25 ingredients.
2. Only purchase products with ingredients that you can pronounce.
3. Download the DSF's wallet-sized dirty dozen list that you can refer back to.
4. Consult the Environmental Working Group's Skin Deep Cosmetic Safety data base if you want to investigate a particular product before buying. Keep in mind that the ingredients may differ in Canada, as the EWG is a U.S. organization.






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